4/27/12

Chapter 11. St. Joseph's Day Altar



Ralph had invited Amy to meet his mother.

No, that wasn’t exactly what he had said.  He actually had invited her to celebrate St. Joseph’s Day at his mother’s home. 

Well, “home” wasn’t exactly correct either, since she was living in the FEMA trailer parked in the driveway of her still-soaked home.

In any event,  she was going to Ralph’s mother’s home, and the day of that meeting was St. Joseph’s Day.

Amy had never been to a St. Joseph’s altar, having been raised in the French and Spanish traditions that included banana-leaf-wrapped tamales on Christmas Eve.  The St. Joseph’s altar  was brought to New Orleans in the 1880’s by the Sicilians who came over in boatloads to the Crescent City.  No longer celebrated in Italy, New Orleanians still hung on to this feast, yet another excuse to party and eat with the Pope’s permission.  Every March 19, Italian families and catholic churches all over the greater New Orleans area set up altars to St. Joseph. Legend has it that a sever draught in Sicily had threatened that year’s crop, so the Italians promised St. Joseph that if he intervened and brought rain, they would honor him each year in perpetuity.  I’m guessing that St. Joseph was tired of being upstaged by Mary and this he saw this as his chance to do something that might overshadow even a  virgin birth.   So he sent the rain.  And now New Orleans has its St. Joseph’s Altars.

Somehow St. Lucy got mixed into the equation.  She was the Patron Saint of Eyes, or the blind.  So on St. Joseph’s Day Italians remember St. Joseph for rain and St. Lucy for eyes.

Not that anyone was wishing to see more rain in New Orleans.

Seven months after Katrina and New Orleans still smelled like a dirty, wet, mildewed rag.

Amy was looking forward to participating in her first St. Joseph’s altar.  She tried not to think about meeting the Mother.  Or what it might mean for Ralph that she was meeting his mother.  She remembered watching the movie Three Coins in a Fountain with her grandmother. An odd movie.  Three women who could thought of marriage as the only path to true happiness and true self-worth.  There didn’t appear to be any other viable options.  Amy marveled that here  they were, secretaries in Italy, living in what looked like a villa with servants.  And that was not enough.  One of these three women pursued one of the bachelors she had met, pretending to like what he liked, when she actually didn’t like any of those things, like opera or osso bucco.  She was intent on trapping him.  It worked because he invited her to meet his mother, something, she was told by one of the other secretaries, was the first step toward marriage in Italy.

Amy was praying that Ralph hadn’t seen this movie or held the same cultural assumptions of the Italian’s of the late 1950’s.

She really and truly was not ready.  She had an identity that needed some attention first, an identity shattered since Katrina and, like New Orleans, it needed shoring up and a comprehensive renewal and development plan.

They headed towards Mid City where Ralph’s mother lived.  Amy was still not used to the sight of the battered city. Usually by mid March, the azaleas are in full bloom everywhere,  the wild irises are popping up along the ponds and stream in City Park and Bayou St. John. But this March, all Amy saw was mud with some tufts of odd looking weeds pushing up through the cracks in the sidewalk. The storm had even wiped out the ubiquitous and resilient St. Augustine grass. The azaleas and St. Augustine grass had all died, no longer shaded by the trees because the trees were no longer there. Dead as well, killed by the water.

By the time they drove up to Ralph’s family home, the front yard was filled with about 100 people spilling into the streets and neighboring yards. From what she could tell, Mrs. Adamo and one other person had a FEMA trailer on this block.  The rest of the homes appeared to still be uninhabited.

Amy looked over at Ralph whose eyes were glued to the street (he was probably saying a silent prayer to St. Lucy), a street that looked more like a bombed road in Iraq.  If the potholes didn’t blow out a tire, the jagged edges of uprooted concrete would.   Ralph was 100% Italian. Dark, think wavy hair, a perennial stubble of beard, green eyes and a classic Roman nose.  He had dark circles under his eyes no matter how much sleep he had.  He always wore a pen clipped to the collar of his shirt, the every-ready author and journalist.

She could tell as soon as they got out the car that the guests at the St. Joseph’s Day altar were beginning to have breakdowns. 

Before Katrina, New Orleanians were inclined to have breakdowns usually at parties.  Not subtle, hide-in-the-power-room type breakdowns, but large, theatrical, operatic, streetcar-named-desire breakdowns.  Since Katrina, these became even more histrionic, if that were even possible.  Since Katrina breakdowns could take place anywhere, like a drive-by shootings.

One the porch of the boarded up home was an elegant but older woman who was having a breakdown. Amy assessed she was having a Blanche-style breakdown.  The elegant but older lady was dressed in a soft beige linen dress, standing on the porch in the shade, shielding her eyes with her pale, fragile freckled hand that was holding up a chunk of diamond which, if the afternoon sun hit it just right, might have blinded one of the many boisterous children, all having their own pre-adult breakdowns, blinded them in spite of St. Lucy and her lucky beans on the altar.  It was as if Blanche were having a breakdown because the sun did not  have a the proper shade placed over it to soften its unforgiving brightness on her fragile white hand.

She was shouting, “Bruno, come here dammit. I need you” punctuating each syllable with the empty martini glass in her left hand.  Bruno, wherever he was, was not answering. In fact, no one was. In spite of the din of the boisterous children and the chatter of the adults, no one was answering.

Just at that moment, in the distance, as if walking right out of the sun’s center, five Mardi Gras Indians appeared from behind the funeral home.  Amy squinted behind her sun glasses and blinked a few times. All the debris and decay dissolved into her peripheral vision.

“Come meet ma mama, “ said Ralph.  Amy’s eyes flapped open like a sprung window shade.

“Bruno come here goddammit.”

Amy could hear Blanche’s voice like a refrain to the beating drums of the approaching Mardi Gras Indians.  Their red and yellow and green brilliance from their feathered dress was blinding.

Ralph grabbed Amy’s hand.  It got lost in his large grip.  He guided her towards the FEMA trailer and up the hastily constructed wooden steps, constructed helter-skelter, the railings just slightly too long and stairs just slightly too narrow. Standing on the stairs with her back to Ralph and Amy was a small woman with dark curly hair. The grey roots were just beginning to show. She had on a loose pair of neatly pressed jeans and a white linen top.  As they approached, the small dark woman leaned forward and said, “Bruno, go take care of your wife. She’s having one of her spells again.”

If you aren’t having a breakdown in New Orleans, you are probably having a spell. A spell is the first step before the breakdown, kind of like meeting your boyfriend’s mother is a first step before marriage.

The man, Bruno, turned around.  He was a graceful man. Tall, 60-ish, silver white hair and tan, leathery skin.  He wore a pair of khaki pants and a pink golfing shirt.

Men in New Orleans wear pink with abandon.  It’s an endearing quality that flies in the face of their otherwise machismo attitudes.  Machismo probably isn’t the right word. New Orleans men were a blend of the Old World and New World, but mostly of the old World.  These men still whistle at women on the streets, even in the 21st century.  More than once, Amy had heard a man on the street almost sing these words to her  as he approached and passed her, “Hey, sugar, looking good today!”. If she dared to meet the admirer’s eyes, he’d inevitably wink and smile in a way that made it impossible for her to be indignant.

Bruno  was holding a half full martini glass in his hand.  As he turned toward the short dark woman, he squinted into the sun, put his hand over his eyes, took a sip of his drink sighed and then handed her the glass in what seemed like a dance he had done many times before.

I’ve got a Big Chief, Big Chief, Big Chief of the Nation
Wild, wild creation
He won’t bow down, down on the ground
Oh how I love to hear him call Indian Red
When I throw my net in the river
I will take only what I need
Just enough for me and my lover
.
“Bruno, come here, goddammit!”

Amy’s ears filled with the music of the Mardi Gras Indians and Blanche’s song from the porch.

Blanche was actually already well beyond the spell and well into the breakdown.

Bruno would have known this had he walked around the FEMA trailor and onto the porch where Blanche stood.

She was  holding onto the crumbly porch railing as if she were on a board tossed about on the open sea.  She closed her eyes.  The music of the Indians began to soak into her sea-sick thoughts and become one with her heartbeat.  She felt the moving earth under her feat begin to still.  Suddenly she was sitting in a familiar, run down and battered room, filled with bleachers which were filled with people.  They were all watching a group of musicians as beat up and battered as the room itself.  At the piano Blanche saw Sweet Emma. On the piano sat her ubiquitous red purse and on her head perched her ubiquitous blue hat.  She was singing:

I’m alone because I love you
I love you with all my heart.

She was sitting in her wheelchair, playing with her one good hand.

The clarinets and trombones began to weave their notes inside and outside and on top each other.

All the sunshine has toined to rain.

Blanche opened her eyes hoping it wasn’t raining.  
The Mardi Gras Indians were now in front the house where the St. Joseph’s Altar party was in full swing.  While Amy had been watching Blanche sway back and forth as if in a voodoo trance, Ralph was introducing his mother to her, the short dark haired woman on the FEMA stairs.   At some point, between Blanche’s reverie and breakdown, and the Amy’s introduction to Mrs. Adamo, a bedraggled group appeared from one of the houses that seemed to be abandoned, armed with clarinets, horns and trombones.  They walked behind the Indians.

The drummer beat out three, slow beats.

The horns began to play, “Just a Closer Walk with Thee.”

Everyone at the St. Joseph’s Altar grew still. Men with caps removed them. Women made the sign of the cross. Children found their parents’ hand.  Blanche stopped swaying.  Bruno stood next to Blanche and put his arm around her.  At the moment Amy heard a mockingbird. It was the first bird song she had heard in seven months.